Aiming high

Day 01
After a week of training and preparation, we finally set off. Early in the morning, we are picked up by our driver in the 'cargo taxi'. We load up our crates and drive one last time to the village where we completed our llama training during the previous week. Once there, we load up our two four-legged friends. 'Lamero' Alejandro and his son, who are there to help with the loading, are getting a little nervous. This is not an everyday occurrence for them either and you can tell how much they care about the llamas. This is also the reason why we will bring the llamas back at the end of our tour.

The journey to the start of the Huayhuash Trail takes several hours. It's not even 140 kilometres, but the roads get increasingly worse and it's steep up and down. Especially because of our valuable cargo, we are glad that our driver takes it easy and drives carefully. In the course of the afternoon, however, we make it to Quartelhuain (4170m), the first campsite on our route. It is still accessible by car, but otherwise very remote. A toilet and two very simple stone huts on the hillside, which are inhabited by a woman and her sheep, are all there is here. Nevertheless, we are expected by three inhabitants of the next village who collect the overnight fee. Not necessarily cheap, especially by Peruvian standards, but the proceeds benefit the communities living here. There were also frequent attacks on hikers in this area before these campsites were installed. So it serves a good purpose.

We unload the llamas and our luggage and begin to set up camp for the first time. Then we want to end the evening in a cosy atmosphere. But Beni is getting worse and worse. He gets severe headaches, chills and diarrhoea. We don't know whether it's the altitude or the cold he's been carrying for a while. So we drink plenty of coca tea and crawl into our sleeping bags early, hoping for an improvement the next morning.

Day 02
Just like the day before, the sun is shining again this morning and there's not a cloud in sight. Beni is also feeling a bit better again, although not great yet. We cook porridge, something neither of us really likes. However, due to its light weight and high nutritional value, we decided to have this breakfast. Not surprisingly, some of it is left over. The leftovers are not wasted, however, but given to a limping dog that had spent the night next to our tent. We give him the fitting name 'Himpi' (Swiss German for limping dog). We dismantle our camp and load our llamas for the first time without help. Well, there is no shortage of helpful comments as the villagers sit next to us and scrutinise our every move with a critical eye, even though no one here owns any llamas. However, they seem to be satisfied with our technique.

And then we head up to the first pass on the trail, the Cacananpunta (4700m). From now on, we will climb at least one of these every day. Despite the altitude, we make good progress and really enjoy finally being on our own. Well, there are a few other people on the way, but it's limited. As we descend again on the other side of the pass, the valley opens up and reveals the Huayhuash Mountains for the first time, a chain of peaks, all of which are over 6000 metres high. An impressive sight, which we can also enjoy from our camp in the evening (4230m). This is what we had imagined!

Day 03
Before we load up our llamas, we set off this morning to make a short detour without our luggage to Lake Mitucocha, which is further up the valley. We are accompanied by Himpi, who limped the whole way with us the day before. Today, however, he is feeling much better and so he faithfully stays by our side - unless he finds a cow to startle. We reach the lake, which at this time of day is still in the shadow of the mighty peaks that are reflected on the smooth surface. In the midst of these giants, you realise your own nothingness and finiteness, a feeling that we encounter again and again during these days and that makes us feel humble.

Back at our camp, the ice from the tent has slowly melted and we can pack up and set off. At first everything goes well again and we make good progress. But as soon as we cross the pass at 4650 metres, the llamas start to buck. Running down seems to go completely against the grain for them. We try all the methods we learnt last week, but it remains exhausting. The two of them are not only tugging at the lines, but above all at our nerves. So we are quite relieved when we finally arrive at the camp at Carhuacocha Lake (4140m).

Day 04
There are two paths from here. A more challenging one, which is said to be beautiful, and an easier one, which is travelled on mules. Talking to the locals, we try to find out whether the steep path would be feasible with llamas. We get contradictory information and therefore prefer not to risk it. Nevertheless, this section is very appealing to us, as many people praise it as one of the most beautiful sections of the entire trail. For this reason, and also to give the llamas a break after the arduous last day, we decide to spend the night twice in the same place and at least visit the viewpoint (4540m) as a day trip.

We look for a good pasture for our two four-legged friends, tie them up and set off. The path winds its way between hills and along turquoise-blue lakes, with snow-covered peaks towering high above and glaciers nestling on their flanks. A truly intoxicating sight. But the view has to be earned. While most of the day was a leisurely climb, we suddenly find ourselves in front of a wall and a steep path that leads up to the 'Mirador de las tres lagunas'. Once we reach the top, we take our time to simply take in the view. In places like this, time seems to stand still.

On the descent we meet Yvette and Matthijs, a Dutch couple travelling South America by bike. Of course there's a lot to talk about. We cook dinner together and round off the evening with lively conversation in our tipi.

Day 05
The next day is a relatively uneventful one for once. After the break, our two four-legged friends are a little more motivated again and we make good progress. Although the trail is not as spectacular as the day before, it is still very beautiful.

When we arrive at the Huayhuash camp site (4350m), a somewhat unusual sight awaits us. Several group tents have already been set up and the place is buzzing with activity. A few locals have sensed the business and are selling cold cola. Well, if they've hauled them here all by themselves, you don't want to be like that... So our refreshment is taken care of, but the search for a suitable pasture for the llamas is a little more difficult. As each of these groups is travelling with at least ten mules, the slopes are already well and truly grazed. After some searching, however, we find a place where they can fill their bellies.

Day 06
Early in the morning, while we are still wrapped up tightly in our sleeping bags, we can hear the guides rounding up the mules and preparing breakfast for the guests. However, we are denied this luxury and so we usually stay in bed at least until the first rays of sunshine creep over the peaks. Then it's time to make tea and porridge and dismantle everything. Although this takes time, we are glad that we have decided to hire an additional tent for cooking and storing the equipment. The tipi was made locally and is a little bit of luxury in these icy temperatures, especially in the evening. But we will be able to escape these temperatures for a while today at least. A hot spring will be waiting for us in the evening.

So we set off and are glad that after a short time all the groups branch off and take a different route. We only meet one German and one Irishman, who are travelling with backpacks, on our way. In the evening we get to know them a little better. As soon as the tent is pitched at the camp site (4365m), we jump into the hot pool together and spend a few cosy hours chatting.

Day 07
Today's programme includes the Paso Punta Cuyoc (5012m), the highest pass on our tour. Right from the start, the route only leads upwards. The various peaks and glaciers pile up all around us and even though we no longer feel the altitude so much, the enormous panorama never lets you forget where you are. We simply can't get used to these breathtaking views and so we enjoy the ascent, which takes us past small lakes again and again. At the same time as our new acquaintances, we reach the top of the pass, where we take time to take photos and soak up the mountain scenery.

The next valley spreads out in front of us and from up here we can already see a large part of the route that still lies ahead of us today. So we set off on the steep descent and arrive at the 'Campamento Elefanto' (4500m) in the afternoon, where a few tents are already pitched. However, we saw on the map that there was another place to spend the night about 1.5 hours further on. We decide to go a little farther to shorten the long next day a little. However, when we arrive at the marked spot, there is no sign of a camp. However, an old outhouse, which is no longer in use, tells us that there must have been a camp site here. As it soon gets dark and it has started to rain a little, we pitch our tents here anyway. As soon as we've finished, we hear someone shouting. We crawl out of our shelter again and discover a man on the other side of the river gesticulating wildly and calling out to us. As we approach a little closer, it turns out that he is responsible for this area and that overnight stays are not permitted here. He tells us that he risks a heavy fine if he doesn't send us away. But going any further is out of the question for us, not least because the next camp is still hours away. We discuss it for a while and in the end he makes us promise not to tell anyone that we have seen him and that we will leave early the next morning. That's the end of the matter for him and he leaves. We look after our llamas, have dinner and soon afterwards crawl into our cosy sleeping bags. What a day...

Day 08
As promised, we are up early this morning and head further down the valley. For once, a bit of civilisation awaits us again. There is a small village here that we have to visit in order to organise our return journey. The closer we get to the village of Huayllapa (3520m), the more terraces carved into the slopes for farming we come across. At the entrance to the village we have to pass through a gate, which of course involves a small fee. Well, that's just how it works here... In return, we are allowed to let the llamas graze there while we go into the village to do our things.

We enquire about the internet and lunch at the first houses and immediately find what we are looking for. A friendly woman asks us to come in straight away and puts on some soup for us. Internet is available for a fee and she has also set up a small shop. So we don't have to search any further. While we wait for the food, we log on and go online.

Beni's mobile phone shows dozens of messages and unanswered calls and it quickly becomes clear that something must have happened. His grandfather, to whom he was very close, had died a few days earlier. Shock and complete overwhelm. Fortunately, the spontaneous call to Switzerland gets through and so the grief can at least be shared with the family. After the conversation, we set off again somewhat reluctantly, as we have not yet reached our destination for the day. It's suddenly a completely different kind of journey.

Day 09
A grey morning awaits us on the day of our most demanding stage. For once, there are two passes on the programme today and so we set off early. We are not the only ones travelling with our animals. From time to time we come across local shepherds roaming the slopes with their sheep. We can hardly imagine what it is like to live so high up and are impressed by the resilience of the people here.

We make good progress and on the second ascent the sky clears and the sun breaks through. Once we reach the top of Paso Yauche (4800 metres), a fabulous view awaits us. We had been travelling away from the big peaks for two days, but now they are suddenly back. We have circumnavigated the Huayhuash mountain range and can now see it from the back. Different, but no less impressive. With this panorama before our eyes, we set off on our descent, energised. Unfortunately, this does not apply to our four-legged friends. It is difficult for us to say exactly what the problem is. Maybe it's just too much downhill for them today, something they don't like. In any case, Carlos simply lies down and can't be persuaded to get up. When Beni gets too close, a cloud of spit flies towards him. Sara and Gustavo, the other llama, fare no better when they approach. It was bound to happen at some point... We try various things, but only when Sara passes by and moves on do we manage to get Carlos to stand up.

When we finally arrive at Camp Jahuacocha (4060m), our llamas can roll around in the dust, one of their favourite pastimes besides eating. With a little less enthusiasm, but mostly patiently, they then pose for the obligatory selfies with the locals. Even though for us llamas are simply part of the Andes, they are a rare sight but always a good conversation starter.

Day 10
After yesterday's spitting attack, our second and final day of rest comes at just the right time. The camp site, which is right next to a beautiful lake, is also an inviting place to linger. Sara sets off to explore the area, while Beni takes the time to write a memorial text for his grandfather. As he can't be back in Switzerland for the funeral, this gives him the opportunity to at least be present in spirit. In the midst of all the grief, it is also healing to be able to simply indulge in his thoughts during the extended hiking days and thus properly process the loss.

When Sara returns, we buy some freshly caught trout from a boy and prepare a delicious dinner. The last night on the trail lies ahead of us and we all soak it up one last time. It's hard to believe that it will be finished so soon...

Day 11
Once again, we set off early. So early, in fact, that we have to pack up our tents frozen. As we are picked up at the next village at midday, which is still a few hours away, we have no other choice. With the mountains behind us, we set off on our descent. Beni is once again able to put his herding skills to the test and runs after the llamas singing. It works and always elicits a laugh from the farmers along the way.

The further down we go, the warmer it gets. It's unbelievable how noticeable the difference is. We arrive in Llamac (3240m) right on time around midday and after a short search we find our 'cargo taxi', which is already waiting for us. That was easy! One more selfie with the llamas, then load them up and we're on our way back to Huaraz. A few hours, dozens of potholes and a simple lunch on the way later, we are back in the village of our lamero. The relief that everything went well is clear to see. We are happy to hand our two four-legged friends back into his care, such is his affection for these animals. Now it's time for us to say goodbye to Carlos and Gustavo for good. We don't quite realise that this adventure is over and when we get back to our accommodation just under an hour later, it feels very surreal. Nevertheless, the hot shower is of course met with great enthusiasm and during the subsequent meal at the Indian restaurant we toast to an incredible experience. We are incredibly grateful that we were able to fulfil this dream and spend ten days trekking through the Andes with our own llamas against this breathtaking backdrop. We won't forget this in a lifetime!